I have had lots of days of relaxation, but in that time I still managed to paint my toenails fluorescent pink, eat, catch up on emails, eat, sort my photos, eat, and read a book (and remind myself how much I love reading and that I never had 'time' to read at home). My trousers are now a little bit tight, so as I can't afford to go and buy new stuff because I just have no space left in my trailer bag (may be because I bought another handbag - oops), I am looking forward to getting back on Sally and easing in to my clothes again. I also spent a lot of time researching Cambodia, something I didn't do for Vietnam because it was a given that a cyclist's needs could always be met, as well as the ability to read Vietnamese as they have the roman alphabet.
I have heard lots of mixed reviews on cycling through Cambodia. Speaking to people direct about it and reading all about it online, it seems that the Cambodian roads are atrocious, hotels are scarce, the food is awful and they have a seriously complicated alphabet that to me looks like a bunch of lined squiggles a five year old would be proud of. Hmmm.... a lot of research was needed. Plans have been written and rewritten, towns have been googled and with the help of the hotel guys, essential Khmer words have been written down and how they are phonetically pronounced so we can actually try and communicate.
Cambodia's history is long and painful. Going back to 800 - 1400 AD, Cambodia was once the strong Angkorian empire, but even during that time, they were at war with one another and it's neighbours Thailand and Vietnam. The French then came in 1864 and kicked out the Thais and Vietnamese and ruled for a while, which provided some protection. Eventually, Cambodia declared independence in 1953 but trouble was still lurking. Cambodia was affected by the Vietnam-US war and in the early seventies the prime minister was overthrown, who in turn set up a government-in-exile with the guerrilla group, the Khmer Rouge. And so, Cambodia's worst history happened under the Khmer Rouge rulings. They had incredibly twisted and extreme views on how they wanted Cambodia to be. Essentially they wanted to wipe out all traditions and history and start again with everyone on an equal scale. Whilst under their regime, people were forced to work long hours in poor conditions. Intellectuals (those who speak foreign languages, wear glasses, have long hair, engineers, doctors, academics, soldiers and all relatives of these people, including children and the elderly) were punished, tortured and killed. Just under 20,000 people passed through the S-21 Prison (which used to be a high school, and is opposite our hotel, creepily enough) before being taken 14km south of Phnom Penh to be killed. It has been estimated that 2 million people died directly or as a result of poor health, diet and sanitation during the three years and eight months of Khmer Rouge rule. I just cannot believe that such horrendous atrocities happened just 30 years ago.
As a result of such horrific and recent events, it is not surprising that Cambodia is a little behind in development, especially compared to neighbouring Saigon and Bangkok who have not had such a regime that has prevented the skyscrapers, trendy cafes, bars and restaurants. But, nonetheless Phnom Penh is getting there, just perhaps give it 10-20 years to catch up.
It seems here the people are a little taller than the Vietnamese, a little darker and their eyes are a little wider. They are just as beautiful and they definitely smile a lot more, which just amazes me when you consider what they have been through as a nation. From what I have learnt since being here, certain countries, such as the US, China, Japan and Australia have an ever increasing presence here and it is though they are all trying to compete against one another in who can do the most to impress Cambodia and be seen as an ally perhaps? The UN have a heavy presence here and I think the Cambodians feel somewhat protected by this. I even met an English chap who has worked for the UN in Phnom Penh for the last year whilst cycling through the city. Much to mine and James's confusion, we were trapped inside our hotel for the morning whilst Hilary Clinton and her hundreds of security guards visited the S-21 Prison opposite. It looked like a scene from The Matrix for a while, with agents in sunglasses and ear pieces everywhere.
I think I have done enough talking for one post and I am going to let my photographs tell you the rest...
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| Having a snooze while business is quiet. |
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| Mmm... chicken |
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| Man with a van... or tuk-tuk |
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| Killer ants. |
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| The beautiful King's Palace. |
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| The SIlver Pagoda. |
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| The four faces of the King's Palace. |
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| Pink toenails! Asian girls love nail art, they put my bare nails to shame. |
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| The buddhas of the King's Palace. |
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| The victims of the S-21 Prison. |
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| The classrooms were knocked through and turned into prison cells. |
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| A high view of the tiny cells, not even big enough to lie down. |
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| Mmm... squid. |
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| Dried fish and snake heads. |
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| Certainly not for the faint hearted! |
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| Nothing is wasted. |
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| Old and young... everyone goes to the market. |
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| No baby chicks in sight but I'm sure they're there if you ask. Also pajama-esque suits are normal here. |
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| Takking a cooking class to learn what actually goes into the delicious Khmer food. Well worth it and very enjoyable. |
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| This is what I made...absolutely stunning fish Amok. |
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