Scooters here don't slow down, they just avoid you, narrowly sometimes, which is why you cross the road here slowly, so they can judge. In fact, no one slows down for you, or anyone. And as for horns, well. In the UK, any type of vehicle would only normally use their horn to express anger or a warning of danger. In Vietnam it means; 'I am coming through, GET OUT OF THE WAY' but is not considered angry. I don't understand it! It's just continuous beeping ALL THE TIME! Everyone thinks they are the king of the road, no one wants to slow down for anyone else and no one wants to drive behind anyone else, everyone wants to be at the front. This means that overtaking is common, and it doesn't really matter whether anyone is coming the other way or not. Since coming out of Hanoi, the roads have opened up to trucks, which are the worst. Their horns are just deafening and the noise totally wipes out anything or one you are listening to around you. I could go on, but I won't.
The type of vehicle, as it does in most countries is a display of ones wealth. The bicycle being the poorest mans way of transportation. Next is the bus, then the scooter, then the motorbike, then the car, then the 4x4. Westerners are nearly always considered to be rich to local people, and to them we are, but it is all relative. Therefore, seeing two Westerners on bicycles attracts a lot of interest. I think there is also the amazement of different looking bicycles, as the ones here are sit-up-and-beg Dutch style bikes. Then there is my trailer. This seems to attract a lot of interest. I've had people poke it, lift it, kick it and watch me attach it. People stare at us, some point and laugh. Drivers of scooters turn to crane their necks to watch us for as long as they can without crashing. Some have even ridden along side us, chatting away and then got bored and driven off when they realise we don't understand a word they are saying. People on the side of the road wave and point and we've had lots of 'Hello's! shouted at us. All in all, a very positive and friendly response.
Once out of Hanoi and the predominantly tourist area, things start to get tricky with the language barriers. Ordering food has been a challenge as we had the luxury of the menu also being in English in Hanoi. We watched one lady cook at the side of the road, ready to point at things to say that's what we wanted for dinner the other night. Now I am quite open when it comes to food and I am happy to give anything a go at least once. But, there is a line. As her customers came, she bashed out meals that had chopped up liver and kidneys of some animal; first wince. Then she produced a meal that had chicken feet in it; second slightly more prominent wince. Then, she pulled two eggs out of a separate bucket. I've seen eggs a lot here, so I was thinking they'll either be raw, or boiled. But no, she cracked open the egg and there was a dead unhatched chick, that looked like a brain; HEAVE!!!! She cracked it into a small bowl, added seasoning and stock and took it over to her two customers that happily tucked in. Now that, is too far.
The first day of cycling was good, a gentle 44 flat miles in the pouring monsoon rain, which meant is was a cool 25 degrees; a good day to ease us both back into it. Then today was different. It reached a top temperature of 37 degrees, brilliant sunshine with moderate hills. Still we managed 58 miles. I was continuously applying factor 50 suncream to my legs, but they still managed to burn.
Saw lots of rice paddy fields and buffalo.
The craggy rocks of Halong Bay in the distance with more rice fields in the forefront all very neatly lined.
Now, we are in Halong Bay on the north east coast of Vietnam. Tomorrow, we take a trip over to Cat Ba island and spend a few days exploring the natural beauty of the wonderful area. Stay tuned!
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